The Process: Serpentine Summer House Concept Model
SET UP
I wanted to explore steam bending and how tight I could create curved forms through this process. I used European Beech found in the workshop, then used the timber thinner to reduce its depth down to 4mm to make it easier to bend. The piece was cut down into 4 pieces of varying width to create variations in the forms. It was then left overnight soaking in water before the streaming process commenced.
When I took it out of the streamer, I used the template to bend and hold in place the curved form. Unfortunately, because of the tight curves I was wanting to create, as I curving the forms into the template the acrylic template snapped as it could not withstand the pressure of the timber resisting the bending.
However we were still able to use these forms with the assistance of clamps to hold it together. This was definitely a two person job (therefore hard to get photos of us putting them in the template) as the timber didn't stay in position and kept bouncing back. Once it was in place and clamped together it held well and was left for two days to fully dry into shape.
To finish the curved forms I gave them a good sand on the handheld disk sander; this gave the timber a nice smooth finish.
FINAL MODEL
COST AND TIMING
Before I started to bend the timber, I laser cut a template that was to be used to set the timber in place while it dried into curved form. I laser cut the template from black acrylic as I believed that the curved timber's final base could have also been the template.
BENDING TIMBER 
Laser cutting file
I wanted to explore steam bending and how tight I could create curved forms through this process. I used European Beech found in the workshop, then used the timber thinner to reduce its depth down to 4mm to make it easier to bend. The piece was cut down into 4 pieces of varying width to create variations in the forms. It was then left overnight soaking in water before the streaming process commenced.
Timber in steamer (lid removed for photos)
The next morning it was taken out of the water and placed straight in the steamer and left again for 3 hours to make the timber soft. 
When I took it out of the streamer, I used the template to bend and hold in place the curved form. Unfortunately, because of the tight curves I was wanting to create, as I curving the forms into the template the acrylic template snapped as it could not withstand the pressure of the timber resisting the bending. 
However we were still able to use these forms with the assistance of clamps to hold it together. This was definitely a two person job (therefore hard to get photos of us putting them in the template) as the timber didn't stay in position and kept bouncing back. Once it was in place and clamped together it held well and was left for two days to fully dry into shape. To finish the curved forms I gave them a good sand on the handheld disk sander; this gave the timber a nice smooth finish.
THE BASE
Again using some spare timber from the workshop I created seamless timber boxes to use at the base for the curved forms. Firstly, the timber was thinned to 10mm thick and cut to size on the table saw. Each box was set at 10mm difference in height to get the same variation in height in the bases, as the variation of height in curved forms. Grooves were also set into it so the acrlyic base could sit seamlessly into the frame. The 45degree angle for the butt joints where cut in the drop saw.
Nick cutting timber for the bases on the table saw and cutting 45 degree angle on the drop saw.
Because the acrylic templates snapped whilst the timber was bending I had to re-cut the acrylic squares at 25x25cm for the curved froms to sit. I wanted to use acrylic so it would reflect the curved forms on the base, emphasising the shadows and softness of the created forms.
Then, using the spray booth at university, I painted the timber black to match the acrylic. Once the paint had dried all I had to do was glue all the sides together using PVA and a small amount of masking tape to hold it together with the piece of acrylic sandwiched between them.
Spray painting timber for bases
Box detail
FINAL MODEL
WHAT WOULD I DO DIFFERENTLY?
Use a stronger material for template - possibly timber - so it doesn't break whilst the timber is drying in the template.
COST AND TIMING
Overall Cost: $12 (only thing I had to pay for was one small sheet of black acrylic).
Overall Time: Approx 10 hours (not including the time the timber was left soaking and in the steamer).
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